There are several more details to understand, which I cover next. As you experiment, you will learn what I mean. One point to keep in mind is that single-sheathed cars require more work, both to get wet everywhere and also to distribute pigment evenly, because every panel between posts and diagonals has to be treated as a kind of independent region. The model is an InterMountain product, and like nearly all of SP’s 1950s covered hoppers, has “closed” sides. So that’s about it. Here is a Proto2000 model of a Union Oil Company tank car, which I would call “moderately” dirty. The weathering process begins by squeezing out a small amount (maybe as much as a small grape) of the black, gray and umber, onto the palette, and then mixing as seems good at the time. For that reason, PFE car weathering cannot simply be scaled with the age of the paint scheme, because an older paint scheme may have been washed recently, and the car might then appear cleaner than a more recent paint scheme. This photo illustrates one strength of the acrylic wash method, that it can provide an overall “dirt” level and create a faded look. We will never be able to replicate all those years of intense exposure to the elements, we can only simulate it through the use of different tools and techniques to artificially make the model look aged. Washes for weathering Vehicle Models. Let’s look at a prototype car to illustrate the points to be pursued. Note also the “compressed gas” warning placard on the placard board, and the scuffing to the right of the door where the paint has been scraped. A related problem arises with bulkhead flat cars, for which there is both a steel body and bulkhead frame, and a wood deck and bulkhead facing. Here I mostly mean streaking caused by drainage of water off the car, especially the roof. But photos of real cars often show more variation. Another point: stock cars were cleaned between all runs, often steam cleaned, and many prototype photos show their paint as faded. This means that raw “real wood decks” on model flat cars can only represent a just-installed deck, which would be a rare observation. These cars naturally took a beating inside, as do most gondolas, and in this model you can see the extensive rust. Roofs are relatively easier than car sides, which I cover in the next part. You can see in this photo that the pigment tends to puddle together rather than spread uniformly. Now that it’s wet, you can add pigment. The way to represent rust, as I’ve said before, is to use Raw Sienna (yellow rust) and Burnt Sienna (red rust), along with Burnt Umber (older, brown rust), again in the form of the usual washes. Figure Models . For these reasons, the AMMO team has produced this complete Acrylics guide containing all the tips and techniques necessary for painting all genre of models, from figures and military vehicles to dioramas and aircraft. The rest of the basic method is about the same. The level of dirtiness is something you can choose during application, and if it turns out not to be as much as you wanted, you can always repeat the application. I weathered the body with washes, the deck and facings with paint. Note the paint patch on the reservoir, to accept that stencil also. As you can see, there is some yellow rust streaking on the inside of the sides, along with some red rust, and the wood floor (represented with scribed styrene) has been weathered much like the flat car decks shown in Part 6 (link provided above). It includes a step-by-step guide on how to apply a wash. Weathering adds realism by simulating the appearance of years of use and abuse in the field. I mention this because  it affects the rate at which water evaporates off the model surface you are working on. Here is that car as completed, including a paint patch for the reweigh date. Note that walkway and trucks are weathered too, and that a route card has been simulated with a small square of paper on the edge of the running board. I was wondering if anyone had tried using the acrylics and some drying retarder to do a similar kind of thing with the filters and rendering? This represents what t... Where to start. Here is an example of interior rust and dirt added to a steel SP GS gondola. The resistance, hardness and covering power of Model Air is superior to any known acrylic for airbrushing. Enamel weathering has become very popular in the last decade as modelers realize the usefulness of using products that you can manipulate and blend, even hours after application. Such variations definitely do show up in prototype roof photos. As I have described the process so far, the pigment will have accumulated around rivets, corners, or protrusions of any kind, but if you have been careful as I described in previous posts, color will be pretty uniform. ABTEILUNG 502 modelling oil color 20ml - Faded Navy Blue Abt030 Most route cards appear to have been white or manila in color, but there are photos which clearly show pink, yellow, blue and green, so occasional cars having route cards of those colors would be realistic. As I said, you have to stay in the damp/wet areas for consistency,or else stroke upward to keep re-wetting the dry areas with the water + pigment. Here are some ways to depict those variations. Finally, I will show the three models I have built of SP’s famous black Overnight box cars. You can click on the image to enlarge it. ammo mig jimenez mig plastic model kit 1/35 model kit Acrylic color 1/48 master box plastic model kits Home > The Weathering Magazine Publications The Weathering Magazine Publications There are premium paints and there are inexpensive ones, and for weathering I certainly advise the lower priced brands. I have been reading a lot about weathering with oils and reading the book from Mike Rinaldi titled Tank Art. Acrylics are very forgiving, in that if you don’t like how an area is working out, just scrub it with clean water, the pigment will come off readily, and you can do it over. Since the creation of this talk and its handout, I have been thinking about the description problem off and on, and am going to try and present in words, with a few photos, what my method is, and a few cautions and recommendations during the process. Better to work up to the desired level of dirt from the lighter end of the scale. As dirty water drains from the roof in a rain shower, it is channeled along the top of the car side and drains preferentially from the ends of door tracks. It also provides a comparision between a traditional ‘mix-it-yourself’ oil paint wash and ready made enamel wash from ‘MIG Productions’. There are premium paints and there are inexpensive ones, and for weathering I certainly advise the lower priced brands. A few years ago, Richard Hendrickson and I developed a joint clinic on weathering of freight cars, which we duly presented at a number of RPM and NMRA meetings, starting in 2011. Insides are often different in wear patterns, degree of rust, debris, and other factors. It is not too bad a match for some cars owned by the Montour. Here I show a refrigerator car roof being wetted. Due to a number of email messages that I've received asking questions about the application of washes on models, I decided to jot down my thoughts on this topic and drop them into an article. I will try dish soap on the next model. What is happening is that suddenly you are no longer working with a. For house cars, I usually do the roof only, in one step, then do the sides and ends on another day. These four cases are not extensive, but I think they illustrate the general results of my weathering method. In our joint clinic on weathering, Richard and I showed examples of the use of pencils. I use a lot of Neutral Gray to tone down other colors, along with Ivory Black, and my main brown color, Burnt Umber. Below is a reefer having a little more dirt added to the roof (the yellow “color” is actually reflected light). Water will simply bead up and not spread, on any glossy area, which in turn would mean that the weathering will be pretty unsatisfactory (try it on something discardable as a test). T... Back in 2002, I published a short article in the Southern Pacific Historical and Technical Society magazine, Trainline (issue 71, Spring 20... Weathering with acrylic washes: basic technique. Modeling freight traffic, Coast Line, Part 14, Freight car graffiti, Part 17: 60-foot box cars, Pennsy freight cars, Part 6: modeling the wagon-tops, Open-car loads: lumber from Owl Mountain Models, Modeling open ice hatches on refrigerator cars. All are based on prototype photos, and are part of the effort to reproduce what is seen there. These details complete the overall process of my acrylic weathering technique. Here is another view of that being done, again prior to final weathering, when streaks like these will be somewhat muted. Again, I tried to capture the downward streaking on the tank, as well as dirtying up the “glossy new” look of the ready-to-run model. Few modelers reproduce either the dark colors or the damage to the deck. The other detail I add to almost all my cars is the route card, which was also discussed in the post just cited. Those are shown in the following two sections. For more information on the reweigh requirements for freight cars, you might wish to consult the article I wrote for. The prototype cars did not seem to show dirt too badly, though as this photo from the late 1950s shows, eventually they got dingy. Model Air is presented in a 17 ml. Some readers of this page will have seen the November 2014 issue of Model Railroader magazine, with several articles on weathering. The next thing to be watching for is the emergence of dry areas. I've been experimenting and have done quite a few cars with the craft acrylic paint you can by at WalMart. Paints for modeling. Finally, I should say something about salt staining on reefers. That in turn sets the time scale on which you can work the wash around on the car.I would advise experimenting to learn what rate you have to work at, on a particular day. Tank cars are a special challenge, as you really have to do the entire car in one go, and I will say more about that presently. (You can click on the image to enlarge.). The draining downward of pigment, evident on any more or less vertical surface, was described and illustrated in talking about car sides, and here it is even more prominent. Many prototype photos of freight trains or freight yards reveal some refrigerator cars with ice hatches latched open. It is thus necessary to recognize a car which has been repainted, even one of considerable age. Weathering a pristine model can be intimidating, but it is not impossible. In the photo below, I am adding those, again with a little straight Umber or black. I begin with tube acrylic paints, available at any art store. First, some cars show either light or dark dirt near ladder rungs, presumably from the boots of yardmen or brakemen. Different mediums are great for doing different types of weathering. Find a proto picture and work from it. A car type which took particularly hard use, in fact comparable to hopper cars in some ways, was the General Service or GS gondola in the West. The photo is from the Bruce Petty collection. But do this fairly promptly. A brief summary of our clinic, in the form of a handout, is available at the following link: Here is a photo showing the process of varying the color of a painted running board. This tutorial sets out the theory and practice of using a paint wash to improve the appearance of a scale model. Most of my models, from which I share pictures in my post, are paint with the Golden acrylics; even if Golden colors are US brand, this line is quite easy to find in store for artist here in Europe. You are making an artistic statement in addition to adding your unique stamp of ownership. Weathering enamels, acrylics, etc. I begin with tube acrylic paints, available at any art store. Remember, you are not, Once dry areas begin to appear, caution is needed (experiment with. 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